Teotihuacán revisited

highway 132 leading to the pyramids

                                                Walking down the Ave of the Dead


Tiny flowers growing in the ruins

 

Marie and tomb lining the Ave of the Dead



Me resting between two cactii, Pyramid of the Sun behind me

Fer, Rosio & Phil in front of the Pyramid of the Moon

This very important site we visited on Day 4 while in Mexico City, an hours drive north on highway 132. It was a hot December day and the sun beat down as we walked down the rough road leading to the Pyramids. It was an old place before the Aztecs arrived in the 13th century and had been long abandoned. Teotihuacán was one of the largest cities of the world during the first millennium C.E., when it had a population of 100,000 to 150,000. The pyramids were constructed around 150 C.E. and were abandoned around 600. Unlike the pyramids of Egypt, the pyramids at Teotihuacan aren't build of solid stone, instead they consist of stone and brick rubble covered with layers of cut stone, all done without the benefit of pack animals, metal tools or the wheel. Teotihuacán had lain in ruins for nearly six centuries when the nomadic Mexica tribes, the Aztecs, wandered into the Valley of Mexico. By their own accounts they  believed Teotihuacán to be the birthplace of the gods (in Nahuatl, Teotihuacán means "Place of the Gods"). In reality they probably knew little more about the site than we know today, despite nearly a century of excavation. When the Aztecs uncovered it from the thick growth that lay over it they used it for their own purposes, naming the two pyramids according to their own beliefs: The Pyramid of the Sun and The Pyramid of the Moon. The long main thoroughfare we now walked they called the Avenue of the Dead as they thought it was lined with tombs, which they were. The full significance of the Pyramid of the Sun only became clear to archaeologists in the early 1970s, when a tunnel was accidentally discovered at the foot of the main staircase. This tunnel led directly toward the center of the pyramid's base, where six chambers or caves were discovered. Originally believed to be natural springs, these "caves" are now known to be completely man-made, and to date back to the earliest date of the pyramid's construction. Excavations at the smaller Pyramid of the Moon have found burial sites - full of the remains of foreign warriors, mammals, reptiles and birds of prey. The victims were all ritually killed to consecrate each stage of the pyramid's construction. On the days of the fall and spring equinox, Teotihuacán is packed with people who dress in white and climb to the top. According to Cesar, who explained this to me, they stand at the top with arms outstretched to receive the special energy of the site on that day. The Pyramid of the Sun is nearly 200 feet high and 700 feet wide and with an estimated weight of three million tons! Since we have been there I have found out that because of the building method a lot of reconstruction was needed to get it to its current state, and there's alot of uncertainty about its original appearance as we saw it.

We climbed up to the top together - over 250 steps - and had some wonderful views. It is actually higher than a 21 storey building, and the altitude at this location makes it seem even higher! From our vantage point we could admire the surrounding countryside, the mountains and the Pyramid of the Moon.

 

Cesar atop the Pyramid of the Sun - don't back up!

Cesar at entrance to Quetzalpapalotl

 More drilling and excavations were being done at the Pyramid of the Moon so we didn't climb it but explored some nearby chambers (Quetzalpapalotl) decorated with panels still showing the vivid colours the Aztecs used. This is north along the Avenue of the Dead, on the left hand side just before arriving at the Pyramid of the Moon, and is the entrance to what is called the Quetzalpapalotl Palace. It's possible this was the residence of Teotihuacán's ruler: other living spaces are less ornate and generally divided into smaller areas. It is one of a number of former residences of the nobility which have been restored and made open to visitors. The name Quetzalpapalotl was originally applied to this place because the excavator thought he was uncovering depictions of a strange creature with quetzal bird and butterfly characteristics. More recently it has been realized that the creature was none other than the Teotihuacán armed bird seen everywhere. There are many painted and carved designs of abstract geometric figures in this palace; like other ancient American peoples, the builders of Teotihuacan were extraordinarily skilled at observing and predicting astronomical events and accurately recording the passage of time. We needed a break though and it was cool inside the chambers and a nice respite from the hot sun. I found it incredible that so much of the rich red, yellow, blue and green has survived in such a damp environment, especially since the surrounding buildings don´t provide much protection. There was also a sign directly above this mural saying "no flash " (which I honoured as you can see from my pictures), the screen in front had not been drawn, and sunlight was falling directly onto it, so if you want to see these murals before they fade now is the time! 

Sign leading to tombs - click picture to read

Detail of wall painting

Outside La Gruta

Inside La Gruta

  When we left we were thirsty and hungry and the chilly dim La Gruta restaurant, just a few hundred yards away, had cold beer! It is located in a deep cave, but the brightly colored furniture, table linens and candles really make the space burst with life! A nice way to end an afternoon of exploring! gws