The day after Christmas we all drove to the southern part of the city to Xochimilco to see the famous canals. They are all that's left over from what was an extensive lake and water system that originally connected most of the settlements of the Valley of Mexico. Here, where you can see the last traces of the Aztec era, we boarded an old and slightly decrepit but traditional and very colourful gondola-like punt (modeled after pre-Hispanic vessels) and proceeded to move slowly out with dozens of other boats. On either side of us artificial islands called chinampas were crowded with vendors and people enjoying the last few days of 2013. The weather was nice and it was an interesting hour on these ancient waters. César told us these boats were originally decorated with arches made from real flowers but as the cost of flowers increased they changed to a wooden arch affixed to a roof that had been added on for protection from the sun. Like our boat the arches have female names on them and are now painted with floral and other designs in yellow, red, green and blue, with a long table with chairs to allow for eating and drinking. You can buy food, drinks and even plants from trajineras that pole up and down the canals and for a few pesos you can hire a floating mariachi band to play a few songs!
From Xochimilco's crowded waters it was a short drive to the Museo Dolores Olmedo, once the home of this rich Mexican businesswoman who had lived here in the rambling stone hacienda dating from the 16th century. It was presently showing works by Matisse, Modigliani, Picasso, Renoir and many others, as well as Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera, and we looked forward to the visit. But after three hours in line we decided to call it a day - we were all tired and the massive line, unexpected but normal for the Christmas holidays, just too daunting. While we waited we all took turns saving our spot and wandering around the grounds to visit various smaller museums that were open and look at the hairless and rare Mexican Xoloitzcuintle dogs that were kept on site. I saw an interesting French Impressionist-themed Day of the Dead exhibit near the entranceway and Marie and I visited the home of Dolores Olmedo, filled with her trophies and collectibles from Africa and Asia.
On the 27th, Cesars birthday, just after noon we gathered at a small church for a family mass celebrating his and Rosalia's life together, then walked down to a hall where over a hundred friends, cousins and family came together to honour him. An excellent marimba band, Marimba Canon del Sumidero de Lalo Trujillo, played the whole time we were there, providing the perfect background music to a beautiful meal and celebration of his life. Tomorrow we are off to have 'Fun in Acapulco'! gws
