Christmas Eve (Noche Buena) in Mexico City

The next morning, Christmas Eve, Phil, Fer, Amy, Marie and I wandered about the city, driving past the Estadio Azteca, the official home stadium of the Mexico national football team, on our way to one of the many parks, churches and markets in Coyoacan.

Marie and I tried a glass of mezcal at a small bar close by. In Mexico mezcal is generally not mixed with anything else but often accompanied with sliced oranges sprinkled with 'sal de gusano' - worm salt! - a mixture of ground fried larvae, ground chili peppers and salt. Wow was it good!

That evening we all went to the home of Roberto and Carmalita to celebrate Las Posadas, the wonderful Mexican Christmas tradition we enjoyed during our last visit here three years ago. Las Posadas, meaning the 'lodgings', symbolizes the Biblical journey of Mary and Joseph as they searched for shelter in Bethlehem before the birth of Jesus. The celebration lasts nine days, from December 16 to Christmas Eve (Noche Buena or Holy Night) and includes a candle lit procession of kids and adults reenacting Mary and Joseph's journey. The ritual includes a pageant where people costumed as Mary, Joseph, angels, shepherds and the Three Wise Men arrive at the designated house where Las Posadas will be celebrated. Upon arrival the hosts meet everyone at their door with singing an exchange of lyrics from the traditional Pidiento Posada. Soon we all began celebrating with traditional songs and prayers, and then the breaking of the piñata! 

Supper followed, with toasts and music, and as Christmas Eve turned into Christmas Day we said our goodbyes and headed home for a few hours rest before starting the celebrations all over again! gws