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| Fregate Corsaire 'Etoile du Roy' 1745 |
We spent most of the next day in Saint Malo visiting the local museums in the old port. I tried to imagine what it looked like before the bombing of the Second War 2 that destroyed 80 percent of the old walled city behind the 12th century ramparts. It has all been extremely well rebuilt, including the cobblestone streets I found particularly hard on the feet. Those in charge of the reconstruction planned it to be as close to the original as made sense - the mansions have identical facades of granite and a 60 degree pitch to their slate roofs We roamed around the Saint Malo Castle Keep, also restored after the fighting in August 1944, before walking along the seafront to the Solidor Tower, filled with a lot of memorabilia about the deep sea captains from here that voyaged around the dangerous waters off Cape Horn. There was also a very detailed exhibition dedicated to those Malonaise fisherman who took cod from the grand Banks off Newfoundland and the different fishing techniques developed over the centuries. As well there were a few portraits of one of the more famous French privateers (pirates approved by the King), Robert Surcouf, based in the city. I also discovered the first settlers to colonize the Falkland Islands were from Saint Malo, hence the Spanish name Malvinas from the Saint Malo citizens Malouins. The port was at it's peak during the 17th and 18th centuries with a large merchant fleet besides the Corsairs, and one of the three main French ports, the others being Marseille and Le Havre. Shipbuilding also was big here - ships for Newfoundland and for the Corsairs, and canvas for sails that went to Spanish ships. Saint Malo today is a very busy ferry port we found out when we took the Condor fast ferry to the Channels Islands. That will be another story, coming up soon.
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| Fort National in the distance |
We made a quick visit to the rebuilt Saint Malo Cathedral St-Vincent and were pleasantly surprised to find the tomb of Jacques Cartier. The Malouin explorer is practically sanctified here. Along the central aisle of the nave, which survived the bombs, a plaque in the floor declares: "Jacques Cartier kneeled here to receive the benediction of the bishop of St. Malo before his departure for the discovery of Canada on 16 May 1535." All the Cathedral's original stained-glass windows fell out during the war and the south side of the building was reduced to rubble but they have done a superb job in reconstructing it, the new spire not actually finished until 1972. Another discovery as we wandered along the ramparts toward the next museum on our list to see was Quebec House. We had seen four Quebec flags flying over a courtyard and attached building and went to investigate. The Québec Premier Rene Levesque opened this exhibition site in 1984 to celebrate the 450th anniversary of Jacque Cartier's voyage to Gaspe and to show visitors the link between the two countries that is so strong here in Saint Malo.
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| near the monument to the women of the French resistance |
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| huitres de Saint Malo |
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| views of Saint Malo from the Solidor Tower |
The 39-45 Memorial Blockhouse was our last place to visit that day, a museum depicting the German invasion and occupation of Saint Malo during the Second World War. The port's violent time is shown through film, photos, weapons and other memorabilia collected from the citizens in this German anti-aircraft defence blockhouse. We had a knowledgeable and very passionate French guide who led us through the underground quarters of the German military, doing an excellent job of recreating the atmosphere here at that time in history. The Nazis occupied the city in 1940 and heavily fortified it as part of the Atlantic Wall and from here had a commanding view of the city's approaches. It was nice to see the Canadian flag flying prominently along side of the other allies who drove the German's out. We say goodbye to this memorable place tomorrow and catch a train south to La Rochelle and on to Fontenay-le-Compte in the Pays de Fontenay Vendée. gws
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| the Battle of Saint Malo |
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| painting and tapestry depicting Saint Malo |
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| Cote d'Emeraude |
