Puebla, Mexico (Parte 3 Puebla)

Anais and Marie, hospital in Puebla

Classes at the school were proceeding well, the staff friendly and helpful, the other students, all from across the world, generally fun to be with. Marie and I were in two different classes, hers a bit more advanced - she is good at languages. Unfortunately for me I began developing a most uncomfortable skin rash all over my body after the fourth day and, accompanied by my young guide, went to see a nearby clinic recommended by the school. What the doctor prescribed didn't seem to work so that Friday, after getting in touch with Anais, she drove into town and picked us up. We all went together to see her own doctor in a fancy, new hospital in the city. My affliction was similar to Grover's disease, common in the family, and I came away from the hospital with prescriptions for a cream, and two different types of medicine. As it was the weekend we thought it best to give it a few days and see if things improved. Rather than sitting around Marie and I decided to do some more exploring of the city, taking a Turibus on Saturday for a few hours tour of the most popular 'tourist' spots. We stopped by the Fuerte de Loreto for 15 minutes and wandered down by a small lake, the Lago de la Concordia. for a great panoramic view of the city. The fort, one of two in the city, was involved in the defense of Puebla at the battle of Cinco de Mayo in 1862 but we didn't have time to explore it or the museum. We passed by the beautiful 17th century parish church of San José, the facade tiled in the typical Pueblan classic style, as well as different markets we made note of to return to on Sunday, beautiful church after church and finally back to the city's cathedral.

Fuerte de Loreto, Puebla

near the El Lago de la Concordia

Turibus, near Fuerte de Loreto

guitar player, Puebla

 church of San José 

The next day we wandered down to the market area and dropped in to a shop (Talavera Armando Galeria) displaying talavera pieces, including one large Catrina (an elegantly dressed skeleton figure, used as a symbol of the Day of the Dead (Dia de los Muertos) celebration in Mexico. We decided to purchase and have shipped back to Canada. Unfortunately it was damaged beyond repair in transit and, with promises by the Galleria to have it replaced, now wait anxiously again for it's arrival here. Talavera pottery is a Mexican and Spanish pottery tradition named after Talevera de la Reina in Spain. The Mexican type is a tin-glazed earthenware with a white base glaze coming from the town of Pablo del Monte in Tlaxcala and, of course Puebla, where we saw it almost everywhere, in shops and adorning buildings and churches. Production of this pottery goes back to the 16th century and is usually only decorated in blue, but yellow, black, green, red and orange are now being used. Our Catrina had all of these colors and more.

our Catrina, Talavera Armando Galeria, Puebla

across from the Zocalo

eating a non-traditional lunch at VIPs, Puebla

Marie and Catrinas, Puebla

Afterwards we went over to the crowded and amazing Callejon de los Sapos (Alley of the Frogs), where we found vendors crowded together selling everything one might think at a typical flea market and more. We bought some talavera numbers to put on the front door of the house, a fridge magnet and an amazing colorful tablecloth, marveling at the prices and selection of everything imaginable. We also walked down to the closest food market, the Mercado de Sabores Poblanos, a farmers market that sold everything from fresh fish to vegetables and fruit that we could only dream about during our long, cold winters. That night strolling about we found a small booth run by an elderly Mexican woman that, although probably not up to Canadian standards, smelled inviting so we decided to take a chance and order. She was cooking the local Pueblan delicacy recommended by César, the cemita, a Mexican sandwich made with a bread roll filled with fried meat and fillings of sliced avocado, white cheese, onions, the herb papalo and red sauce (salsa roja). It was quite tasty and typical of the many local food vendors you saw on every corner. But the next day there was little change in my condition and we decided it best I return to Canada and see a doctor in Montreal as soon as possible. Leaving Marie alone in Puebla was difficult but thankfully she had Anais close by and had befriended a professor at the university that provided her company and guidance, was doing well in classes and was looking forward to travelling about the area still. I had a ride to Mexico City provided by the school and the next day was driven to the airport by Cesar to catch an early flight home....and now Marie will take over and relate her experiences for the next two weeks.   gws

Artisan market

buying figs, market, Puebla

eating cemitas at local food stall, Puebla

fountain in front of Teatro Principal, Puebla

Barrio del Arista, Puebla

Puebla, Mexico (Parte 2 Tlaxcala)

After a slow bus ride from Puebla twelve of us students from the Spanish Language school arrived in the city of Tlaxcala, Wednesday the 3rd April, the first of three "school trips" planned. Tlaxcala, the capital of Mexico's smallest state, the extinct volcano La Malinche (Matlalcueyetl, the 'woman with the blue skirt') rising in the distance, is the home of the state's most popular bullring, the Jorge 'El Ranchero' Aguilar. The architecture we saw was well-preserved, especially the 16th century buildings in the historic centre such as Government Palace which houses Desiderio Hernandez Xochitiotzins beautiful murals depicting ancient Tlaxcaltecan history. We also stopped into the Museo Vivo de Artes y Tradiciones Populares to watch some weaving and beadwork being done in the traditional way. Then a walk over to the bullring for pictures with el toro before heading to a nearby bar, Pulque Bendito Dulce Tormento, for a taste of  el Pulque the traditional alcoholic beverage of central Mexico made from the fermented sap of the maguey (agave) plant. It has the colour of milk with a somewhat viscous consistency and is served with different types of juices that disguises the taste. We had a couple of drinks each before heading over to the bus and back to Puebla. All in all it was an interesting day in one of Mexico's many colonial cities.   gws

Museo Vivo de Artes y Tradiciones Populares, Tlaxcala

Government Palace, Tlaxcala

murals by Desiderio Hernandez Xochitiotzin, Government Palace

Jorge 'El Ranchero' Aguilar bullring, Tlaxcala

bullring, Tlaxcala

Marie, jacaranda trees in bloom behind her, Tlaxcala

enjoying El Pulque, Tlaxcala

outside the bar Pulque Bendito Dulce Tormento

Puebla, Mexico (Parte 1 Cancun - Puebla)

arriving Aeropuerto Internacional Puebla

Marie and I left Cancun on the 31st March for a very early flight into Puebla on Volaris, Mexico's domestic airline, arriving safely after a three hour flight. We had thought Anais (César and Rosalia's daughter who lives in Puebla with her husband David and daughter Aitana) would meet us as planned but we were pleasantly surprised to see her parents waiting for us instead as we exited the terminal! Gracias Compadres! We visited for a few hours with Anais and Aitana then left with César and Roslia for our Airbnb downtown, getting lost on the way but eventually arriving outside what would be our home for the next three weeks. But the best laid plans of mice and men as they say...but that later. Through massive wood doors surrounded by the Talevara tile typical of the city we had to knock for Carlos, the conserje, to open up for us, past the restaurant and up the wide, dimly lit stairs to our landing. We had two floors, a winding staircase from the kitchen to the bedroom and main bath upstairs and lots of room, decorated in what I would call Mexican mishmash. Sufficient for our means as it was a fifteen minute walk to the school on the other side of the Zocalo, the main square.

Cesar and Aitana, Puebla

Aitana and Anais, Marie and Rosalia, Puebla

Peekaboo Aitana with Marie and Rosalia

Cesar at a typical news stand near the Zocalo, Puebla

Cesar, Marie and Rosalia, Puebla

outside entrance to our Airbnb, 203 Calle 8 Norte, Puebla

view of restaurant below our Airbnb

After saying goodbye to Cesar and Rosalia Marie and I decided to check out the route we would be walking to school to familiarize ourselves with it before setting out the next day. We walked through the Zocalo, the main square of the historic centre of the city where the school was. The Zocalo was until the end of the 18th century the main market for the town but today is a tree-filled plaza with many sculptures, the most notable the San Miguel Arcangel Fountain, placed there in 1777. Surrounding this plaza we would come to spend every day passing through on our way to school was City Hall and the Cathedral of Puebla, considered one of the most beautiful in the world, with the tallest towers on the continent. When we did find the school's entrance, on 11 Oriente #10 in the Centro Historico, it was an unimposing black door behind protective iron bars  and a camera\buzzer system for entry, in an old and historically preserved building. Contented we knew how to get there we returned the next day to meet our teachers and start our first day of three weeks of Spanish lessons. Classes began at 9AM until 1PM, then lunch till 230PM when we would walk to the Zocalo to meet up with our individual guides, local people assigned to spend two hours conversing in Spanish with us. The school facilities had numerous classrooms equipped with audio-visual aids and WiFi, a computer lab with software for Computer Assisted Language Learning and self-access files for private study. Various trips were also planned, one per week, the first an hour long bus drive north to Tlaxcala where we would be trying the local drink, el pulque!   gws

 San Miguel Arcangel Fountain

Capilla del Beato Sebastian de Aparicio

entrance to school

school food lineup

Ali, Sarah-Cate and another student, noon meal at local Mexican restaurant

view of the Cathedral of Puebla 

school top floor

Cozumel, Mexico (Parte Tres)

As planned we all got up early for our trip to Punta Sur. Michael drove me on the back of his motorcycle to Rentadora ISIS where I rented a small Nissan March from Margarita (always smiling and friendly), then headed home to pack our gear. It was a little less than an hour drive south and I was forever in the debt of whoever would call out "Topes!" before bumping over them in our tiny car. After purchasing our entry tickets on arrival we pulled to the side of the sandy road after a few minutes to check out Laguna X'tacun, home of a few lethargic crocodiles and the odd mangrove tree currently under restoration. Marie climbed up to the observation tower with the guide on hand to learn more about this ecological park, its flora, fauna and lagoon systems. The beach was beautiful, the sand white and clean and there were not too many people about to make it feel too touristy. We swam and snorkeled in the warm Caribbean water while Carolyn and Michael enjoyed the shade and some cold cervezas. I was confronted with schools of nibbling fish wherever I went so didn't quite make it out to the reef, about 300 feet from shore. But floating about with Marie I did have time though to think we could certainly live like this for six months of the year as well. Before leaving the park we climbed up to the Celarain Lighthouse, sitting on the Punta Sur promontory and were rewarded with a fine view of the turquoise blue sea and surrounding lagoons. Inside is a nautical museum which was interesting and well laid out with photos of the history of the area. Outside nearby a small Maya building, the Caracol, stood in ruins, erected during the post-classic period. We followed a guide a short distance to a small pond to check out the local iguanas before heading back home. That night we went to the Casa Mission for dinner - yes, it is usually cheaper to eat out than cook at home. The Mission is probably one of the best restaurants on the island, specializing in seafood and, of course, Mexican food. It also had a pleasant setting and wonderful ambiance, a mariachi band playing off to one side, a luxurious garden and all within a grand hacienda that dates back to the colonial era. Before returning the car the next morning it was decided we would go out to one of Carolyn's favorite spots to watch the sun rise, playa Mezcalito, a half hour drive on the cross-island road (Carr. Transversal). We had the beach to ourselves and waited patiently as the sun showed itself as a pink glow in the east, reflecting on the waves, until after about another fifteen minutes another day began on this special place. After dropping the car off Carolyn, Marie and I walked a few blocks from her casa to La Cocina de Silvia for breakfast. Then it was time to catch the noon ferry and head over to Playa del Carmen, take the ADO bus to Cancun airport, and find the shuttle for the 'Marriot' hotel where we would spend a night before catching our flight to Puebla. Again thanks Carolyn and Michael for a wonderful week! See you in 2027!   gws

Marie at entrance to Laguna X'tacun

Marie atop the lookout tower

on the beach (Playa Chunchacab)

Carolyn and Marie, observation deck atop 'Celarain' lighthouse

Michael and us, Celarain lighthouse

green iguana 

Casa Mission restaurant

a wood nymph, gardens of Casa Mission

Playa Mezcalito

La Cocina de Silvia

Ultramar ferry to Playa del Carmen